CHRISTINA EICHELKRAUT / PVT David Washum, co-owner of Pastels Bistro, sits on the outside patio enjoying the weather on a beautiful day. Washum also owns and operates the bistro's sister operation, C'est Si Bon, in Shoshone which serves primarily breakfast and lunch. Washum works as a chef at the establishments as well. Advertisement

Tucked away behind the art gallery at the Tecopa Hot Springs is what used to be an old rail tie house with a painted sign above it: Bistro Pastels.

Inside the modest-looking structure is a pleasant mish mash of a little over 10 tables and chairs, some pushed together and others standing alone ready to seat four people.

Only a few feet away tucked behind a wall with a serving window cut out of it is the kitchen where John Muccio, a tall bear of a man who speaks with the unmistakable accent of a New Yorker, serves up dishes that prove you don't have to drive all the way to Las Vegas to enjoy fine dining.

The walls are covered with local artwork, and crafts made by local or travelling artists are also for sale.

It feels less like a restaurant than an old friend's house, and more often than not the regular customers who come in are greeted like old friends by Muccio and his son, Ryan.

But you don't have to be a regular to get warm service; everybody does.

The fact that the bistro exists at all is a testimony the power of Tecopa's desert beauty.

Muccio ended up in Las Vegas after graduating at the top of his class from the New York Culinary and Hotel Management School.

Three years ago, Muccio left an impressive career in Las Vegas (including several years as executive chef at Gino Ferraro's, three years at Mama Joe's, and an assistant chef at Romeo's) swearing he would never set foot in a restaurant again.

Fortunately for valley residents and travelers, he changed his mind while sitting on David Washum's porch.

It was 2004, just after a huge rain storm that caused the desert to explode into color.

"I thought it was one of the most beautiful things I ever saw," Muccio said, in a voice that immediately betrays his New York roots. "I decided that's it, I'm staying."

But the restaurant didn't open immediately. Muccio spent the next two years traveling and checking out menus.

In April of this year, Bistro Pastels opened and offered visitors what Muccio calls a "flexitarian" menu.

The restaurant strives to be health conscious, offering many dishes that use organic products and are vegetarian.

But carnivores can count on something delicious, too.

Although no alcohol is served, customers who wish to bring their own bottle of wine or beverages can do so, provided they don't mind opening it themselves.

The menu changes from week to week, offering seasonal fare and chef's choice.

"We strive to be open seven days a week," Muccio explained.

There's no phone at the bistro (Muccio jokes he didn't want his mother calling), but you can call the restaurant's sister operation in Shoshone, C'est Si Bon, also owned and operated by Washburn.

The number at that restaurant, which serves breakfast and lunch, is (760) 852-4307.